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  • in reply to: Check VSC light and Check Engine light on #572
    admin
    Keymaster

    I assume you mean that there is a lot of oil on the exhaust manifold, not in. You certainly want to repair the leaks in the valve cover, but they will not fix you misfire issue. I strongly suggest looking in the factory shop manual before replacing the valve cover gaskets because the manual will tell you if and where you need to use sealant. It is common for corners to need sealant to supplement the gasket. Also, you really should follow the torque specs when you re-tighten the valve cover nuts or bolts. Unless you are an experienced mechanic, tightening by feel can lead to broken fasteners, stripped threads, or future leaks.

    You can have weak coils even if they test fine with a multimeter.

    in reply to: Check VSC light and Check Engine light on #566
    admin
    Keymaster

    If when you moved coils around, the misfire code doesn’t move from one cylinder to another (presumably with the weak coil), your problem is not coils. That is why you swap the coil pack before you buy anything.

    I strongly doubt that the misfire has anything to do with the valve cover leak. Oil is non-conductive and is very unlikely to have any effect on the coils. Why throw in the towel? You have just begun the diagnosis process. You should get a copy of the factory shop manual and look up your fault codes. The manual will have a full diagnosis path to follow.
    Likely causes are: bad O2 sensor, dirty MAF sensor, clogged fuel injectors.

    in reply to: Changing spark plugs. #560
    admin
    Keymaster

    It is not just the life of the plugs to consider. Different types of plugs have differing electrical and ignitablity requirements. Most importantly, the spark plug heat range is a critical property for an engine: too cold a plug will foul out quickly and too hot a plug will cause preignition. The Honda TL plugs might be OK, but I wouldn’t risk it. see this: https://rothautomotivescience.com/forums/topic/spark-plug-technology-platinum-iridium-or-copper-spark-plugs/

    Dave

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by admin.
    in reply to: Diagnosing tips #558
    admin
    Keymaster

    The most reliable approach for both experts and non-experts is as follows:
    – Start with the OBD reader. There are almost no bad-running conditions that will not throw a fault code on a modern engine. Even if the Check engine Light is not lit, you can have stored codes. Anything that results in misfires or rough running will set a fault code.
    – Get a copy of the Factory Shop Manual and look up the section in it that corresponds to your stored faults, This will be in a separate Diagnostic section or in the section with the engine computer (ECU) or fuel system, or Engine-Electric section.
    – The shop manual will have a step-by-step procedure for diagnosing every error code, and usually all it requires is a Volt-Ohm meter.

    in reply to: Check VSC light and Check Engine light on #555
    admin
    Keymaster

    You should use the brand and part number spark plug that is listed in your owner’s or shop manual. It is always a bad idea to try a different type of spark plug than the car maker specifies. (don’t use a copper plug when a dual-fine-wire Iridium plug is called for)

    You can also do well by going to the Denso or NGK website and lookin up the proper plug for you engine.

    Regarding coils; I know too many folks who have had bad experience (short life) with aftermarket coils.

    in reply to: Check VSC light and Check Engine light on #548
    admin
    Keymaster

    The issue can be a faulty igniter (coil-on-plug), fuel injector, or spark plug. The first thing I would do is move the igniter on the identified cylinder and see if the code changes to that cylinder. If it does, then you know it is the igniter that has to be replaced. OBD readers are not expensive, you should buy one. Also fix this ASAP because a misfire can destroy your catalytic converter pretty quickly. The spark plug is the least likely cause.

    in reply to: Changing spark plugs. #545
    admin
    Keymaster

    Changing spark plugs should be considered preventive maintenance. Do this to avoid engine issues. In general, old spark plugs will work fine and the engine should run normally. As a spark plug gets near the end of its useful life, first cold-start may get worse, and then idle quality will begin to suffer. Change the plugs on a schedule according to the owner’s manual and you should never have an issue. You don’t expect a big benefit or even a noticeable benefit, you just avoid ever having a poorly running engine condition that just keeps getting worse.

    in reply to: Is a lower CCA battery safe? #541
    admin
    Keymaster

    An engine can have problems with cold-start because the starter motor has a huge current draw because the starter motor has a lot of work to do to get an engine spinning fast-enough to start. EV’s do not have this problem, no starter motor, no really big start-up electric loads. Ev’s can have an issue with cold-weather performance and range because the heater/defroster is all-electric and takes its power from the same batteries that propel the vehicle. A lot of this can be avoided if you program the car to pre-heat while it is being charged. Also, the batteries can’t deliver full-power when they are very cold (below 0F), but the batteries get warmer naturally as you drive. When you consider buying an EV read the manufacturers recommendation about severe cold operation.

    in reply to: Is a lower CCA battery safe? #538
    admin
    Keymaster

    Correct, a lower capacity battery will not have any negative effects on the engine or charging system. The battery companies all make different CCA capacity batteries in each battery-frame size. The higher the CCA, the more the battery weighs and costs.
    Dave

    in reply to: Is a lower CCA battery safe? #534
    admin
    Keymaster

    A lower CCA battery will be safe to use, and you will not even notice any difference until the battery gets old and/or you are starting in very cold weather. You could even use a tiny motorcycle battery and there would be no problems, except for cold-start.

    Dave

    in reply to: Car materials #527
    admin
    Keymaster

    1. I do not know of a good way to assess the materials used in car interiors. The only thing that is easy to do is figure out whether a material is thermo-set or thermoplastic material. I am not an expert on 3d-printers.
    2. I do think that EV’s will take over and worldwide regulations will support this. As good as many EV’s are today, they will improve dramatically with the next generation of solid-electrolyte batteries that are only a few years from production.
    3. The reason I stressed manufacturing is that the demand for jobs in manufacturing is extremely high and will remain so for a long time. Also there are many positions that do not require degrees and offer extensive training in manufacturing, so you can get an entry into the industry this way while you are still studying.

    in reply to: Turbo vs N/A engine durability #524
    admin
    Keymaster

    The problem with belt-type CVT’s is that they tend to be heavy and not all that efficient compared to even conventional automatics. Also the first couple of generations of CVt’s developed a reputation for not being very durable. The current ones used by Nissan, Toyota and Honda are probably pretty reliable and durable and they are more efficient. The efficiency does not come from the actual mechanical efficiency of the transmission, but from the wide and infinitely variable gear ratios that allow the engine to run at the most efficient speed/load point. The exception to this is when the driver calls for moderate-to-heavy acceleration, the programming tends to make the engine buzz up to high rpms to a greater degree than a conventional automatic. The CVT that is in a Toyota Hybrid is completely different and is a very simple and durable device known as a Power-Split Hybrid system. These are probably the most efficient and durable transmissions in production.

    in reply to: Hey Dave #522
    admin
    Keymaster

    As you see, pretty much the entire auto industry is in Detroit, Germany or Japan, and there is pretty much nothing in Missouri. My best suggestion is to go through the Ford, GM and Stellantis web sites (in careers) and see if you can find anything of interest that you quality for with your current background and education. Seriously consider something in manufacturing. Also realize that these companies will pay your tuition.

    Dave

    in reply to: Motorsports #515
    admin
    Keymaster

    It is worth it if you are personally interested in racing. The upsides are learning to work under pressure, intense teamwork, and a myriad of technical challenges. The downside is very long hours and a lot of time away from home. Even in the new era of electric vehicles, racing will continue. I agree with the statement “racing improves the breed”.

    Dave

    in reply to: Motorsports #510
    admin
    Keymaster

    The main benefit is not learning but advertising and promotion. The applicable phrase was “Win on Sunday, sell on Monday”.

    In the very highest echelon of motorsports, like Formula 1, there has been some powertrain and suspension technology that trickled down to production cars. Also, many of the engineers that took assignments in the racing groups learned a lot from their racing experience.

    Dave

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 110 total)