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1) If you do all of the required maintenance by the book (the owner’s manual!) you should expect a modern engine to last at least 250,000 miles.
2) Today, pretty much all of the major manufacturers build (roughly) equally durable cars and engines; but Toyota, Honda, and the German manufacturers have been doing it longer. The least reliable car company today is probably Land Rover and I would not buy one, even if I wanted and expensive overweight SUV.
3) I don’t like that cars are still getting heavier. Weight is the enemy of everything you want a car to do and lightweight cars generally are more fun to drive. I also don’t like that manual transmissions are getting harder to find in decent cars. My POV is that driving should be fun.
4) EV’s are coming and are infinitely more sensible than Hydrogen fuel cells for the environment. Fortunately, Hydrogen seems to be dying away in most parts of the world. EV’s are not currently as environmentally beneficial as most folks think. The reason is that we have to look at the Well-to-wheels CO2 impact and not just the “tank-to-wheels” POV. See this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1E8SQde5rkYes! Driving habit #1: Use the bar graph on the left side of the instrument panel to try to optimize the amount of regenerative braking and minimize the friction braking. The harder you press on the brake pedal, the more blue bars you light up, but any braking beyond max # of bars (in the down direction) is friction and represents energy you don’t get to put into the batteries. This will mean look ahead and plan you braking when you can.
tip#2: You will notice that in normal driving, the car goes into EV mode whenever you lift off the gas pedal or get into very light loads. When you have to accelerate, the lighter you press on the gas pedal the longer you will stay in pure EV mode. The point that the car transitions between engine on and off is very dependent on the state of charge of the battery pack (gauge on the right). While you are getting used to the car, use display screen that shows the hybrid system diagram so you can understand what mode you are in in different driving situations.
tip #3: Minimize use of AC. Even though the Ioniq has electric AC compressor, it is still a major energy draw and can cut your fuel economy by more than 10%. In all but warm weather (when you really need AC), stay out of automatic climate control and choose to turn the AC off, because in automatic mode, the AC compressor runs more than it really needs to. Also in cold weather try disabling the automatic defrosting mode, because that also turns on the AC compressor. I do find the automatic defrost useful in warm rainy weather.
tip #4: Do not warm up the car before driving (like with remote start). Just get in and drive. Modern engines do not need more than about 10 seconds of warm-up before you start driving. Idling is the slowest and least efficient way to warm up the engine.Enjoy your Ioniq!
I do not understand the question: warranty cost is incurred by the OEM by definition. Most pre-cat failures occur after the warranty period on old vehicles
For the Toyota MR2 -spyder; Spyderchat
For the Honda K20; k20a.org
mazda 3: mazda 3 Revolution
Hyundai Ioniq forumThey have determined that ATF change is not required to assure a 100,000 mile reliable life (the North America warranty period), so it is not recommended. Also you have to be careful in doing the fluid change. You have to be very sure not to introduce even small particles of dirt into the system and all fasteners and plugs have to be installed per the torque specs. Use only the proper sealants if the transmission pan has to be dropped. Before attempting an ATF fluid change make sure you completely understand the procedure and have the proper tools. If you are not careful, you can do more damage than good. In my opinion, if you are a very good and careful mechanic, there will be an overall (long-term) benefit to doing an ATF change at 50-60K miles
I have seen the 30 K interval in other owner’s manuals. There is really no good reason to change an OAT antifreeze more often than once per decade. They might be assuming you won’t dilute the pure antifreeze with distilled water or might assume you will not use the OEM spec antifreeze. Break-in has no effect on antifreeze.
regarding ATF; If I wanted an automatic transmission to last for 200,000+ miles, I would change the fluid at 50 – 60K miles intervals. I would do it myself or a very well-trusted garage.
The Owner’s manual is correct about the coolant. Modern coolant uses completely different anti-corrosion chemistry than the green stuff we used through the ’80’s. It is called Organic Acid Technology and truly last 10+ years. No advantage changing it early.
Regarding transmission fluid. I assume you are referring to automatic transmission? I would read the owner’s manual carefully and if there is no trans fluid replacement interval specified under severe-service, you should be fine leaving it unchanged for 100,000 miles, which in the US is the warranty period. If you keep it longer, I would change the fluid. The reason you can follow the manufacturer’s recommendation not to change in a modern car is that the transmission design and the transmission fluid are all much better engineered than in the past.
Dave
It is difficult to say that all first year major components are to be avoided. product development processes are improving all the time. droth6189@gmail.com
In theory, every major component in a vehicle is thoroughly tested under severe conditions before entering production, but these tests are accelerate tests that try to duplicate many years in-service. So they are not perfect tests. The net effect is that the first generation of any new engine or transmission (the most complicated powertrain components) will tend to be less reliable and durable than subsequent versions.
With CVT’s, running at high power levels is stressful because it puts more heat into the friction surfaces and the special CVT oil, so I would certainly expect any CVT to last longer if it is driven easily than aggressively. Every CVT transmission has a maximum torque limit.
The main reason for Nissan CVT failures is that when introduced, they were relatively new technology. CVt’s have been continually developed since the first generation were put in production, and the newer the model year, the more reliable they are.
The reason why many Nissan CVt’s feel like there is a lack of torque (I think you really mean acceleration) is that they are calibrated for best fuel economy, and that means keeping the engine rev’s as low as possible for current speed and load. The other reason is that most of the Nissan’s are relatively low Power/weight vehicles, so in order to get a good level of acceleration, the transmission has to shift ratio to one that lets the engine get into the high power region. Remember that performance is proportional to Power/weight, not Torque!
If you physically can not turn the key in the ignition it is likely due to the steering column interlock. This is a feature designed to prevent vehicle theft by preventing a thief from being able to steer the car even if the ignition is “hot-wired”. This can happen from either a worn or improperly made key (like a duplicate key). More common is that you can get around this by simply moving the steering wheel back a forth a little bit while trying to turn the key. If this works, the problem is just the friction in the steering column interlock due to a little bit of load on the steering wheel. It should not take much pressure on the steering wheel to allow you to turn the key.
As engine oil approaches and goes beyond its normal service life several things happen that make it unsuitable for the engine:
1) The viscosity (oil thickness) changes. Continual exposure to heat tends to thicken the oil and it eventually becomes out-of-spec for your engine. this can increase wear in the engine
2) The detergents that are in the oil get depleted and the things that contaminate the oil continually (like soot) build-up; but the worst problem is that the detergents that are supposed to prevent sludge formation in crankcase stop working. The effect is that the oil starts turning into a grease-like product that will not flow to your bearings
3) The oil becomes corrosive, because the anti-corrosive additives wear out. This can lead to severe wear
4) In cold weather, especially with many short trips, the oil will become diluted with raw fuel and liquid water. This really degrades the lubricant properties of the oil.As to how long you can go with old oil, generally 7 months or 7500 miles, but the only correct answer is to read your car’s owner’s manual and find the answer in the maintenance section
